Rob Kenny travels to the Greek Islands to find a balance of dance-filled parties and tranquil relaxation, as well as a look at some of the LGBTQ+-friendly venues on offer.
I have not visited the Greek islands since my sixth year holiday to Hersonissos (Crete), and it's safe to say that rough-and-ready experience does not count as a true exploration of the country's culture and cuisine.
As a holiday destination, it has been high on my list - the beauty of exploring the islands is well known - so when contemplating our one 'big holiday' of the year, my fiancé and I finally decided to take the leap.
As the assigned planner, I immediately began researching which islands we wanted to explore and why. After speaking to many friends who know the area well, reading numerous travel guides, and stalking many an Instagram page, I finally decided on our dream holiday route: one week in Mykonos followed by one week in Chania, Crete.
The research
The obvious question, of course, is: why only two islands on a two-week holiday? The answer is simple.
The ferries required to move between islands actually take up the better part of an entire day, so we didn't want to lose multiple days of our holiday to travel between the islands.
Why Mykonos and why Chania?
As you may know from my other RTÉ travel guides, I adore a "glam" and "bougie" holiday abroad. I'm also no stranger to a good party.
We knew either Santorini or Mykonos was going to be the first island visit - they were by far the most recommended - but we landed on Mykonos because, as ludicrously expensive as it is (I will go into this later), Santorini is even more so.
Knowing Mykonos would be all party, all glamour (and all high expense), we were eager to find a gorgeous island for a week of relaxation and some insights into Greek culture and architecture.
After a lot of research, we landed on Chania. This charming city is far less about partying, and far more about wandering the winding streets and taking in the traditional Greek charm. Our quiet week here was a perfect balance to our extravagant party week in Mykonos.
The review: Mykonos
Overall, I completely fell in love with this island. As soon as we arrived, I spotted the iconic white washed buildings nestled against the greenish-brown landscape and that beautiful turquoise Aegean sea. We were genuinely buzzing when getting off the plane.
As glamorous, fun, and beautiful as Mykonos is, though, it comes with a serious price tag. Personally, I don't see the point in trying to do it "on the cheap." If you want a more budget-friendly trip abroad, you're better off going to a lesser-known but just-as-beautiful island where prices are genuinely reasonable.
Mykonos is as expensive as it is because it offers the best and the bougiest. There is a long list of famous party venues and restaurants, but these are my top picks.
Zuma
Zuma is an internationally-renowned restaurant that offers a contemporary twist on traditional Japanese izakaya dining. Located with stunning views of the Aegean Sea, the Mykonos branch is known for its chic ambiance, top-tier sushi, and a menu full of innovative dishes that perfectly blend local ingredients with modern Japanese flavours.
Top tip: book a dining slot that coincides with sunset. You will thank me forever.
Mykonian O
A must-visit restaurant known for its exquisite culinary creations by head chef Dimitris Stoforos. The restaurant features incredible interior design; blending traditional Greek elements with modern aesthetics, creating an atmosphere that's both elegant and inviting. We fell in love with Greek wine here (take note of 'Idisma Drios 2023') and it was one of our best nights of the trip.
Beach Buddha-Bar
Beach combines a luxurious beachfront location with a vibrant atmosphere, offering a fusion of Mediterranean and Asian cuisine. Known for its lively DJ sets and signature cocktails, this restaurant is a hotspot for both day and night, creating a unique dining experience that's as much about the vibe as it is about the food.
Top tip: their award-winning 'angel touch' is a must.
Scorpios
Scorpios is more than just a restaurant; it's a day-to-night experience that encapsulates the bohemian spirit of Mykonos. Situated on a sun-drenched beach, Scorpios offers a menu of fresh Mediterranean dishes, and is famous for its sunset rituals and parties that attract a stylish, international crowd looking to enjoy the island's magical atmosphere.
Where to Stay
When researching where to stay in Mykonos, you immediately start getting drawn to the Old Town. A central hub of the island, and the most dense location for bars and restaurants, it looks like an obvious place to book your accommodation.
Thankfully, though, I was advised by a friend to stay in a hotel or AirBnb in Ornos Bay. The bay and beach itself are gorgeous (one of the best on the island), and it was so nice to be that bit removed from the hustle and bustle, but close enough to dip in.
Top tip: Many of Mykonos' most famous clubs, bars, and restaurants are dotted across the island, so be sure to budget and plan for a lot of taxis.
Hotel review
After mountains of research, I finally landed on Kensho Mykonos- a boutique hotel in Ornos Bay. I was determined to stay in a luxury five-star hotel as this was our one big holiday of the year, and we were prepared to splash out.
Even so, some of the five-star hotels you look up in Mykonos are simply mad money. Kensho looked more reasonable, but equally as beautiful. Having scrolled through countless reviews, it seems like 99% of guests simply praised the hotel, and having just stayed there, I more than understand why.
It's the type of hotel where every staff member knows your name, they all greet you with a huge smile, no request is too large, and it is run impeccably well - arguably the best I have ever seen.
I must make a specific shout-out to the breakfast. Easily the best spread I have ever experienced, I would honestly wake up every morning so excited to get down to the restaurant. From the most beautiful acai bowls to a detailed à la carte egg menu, to every type of fruit, pastries, and salads you could dream of. Staying here, breakfast quickly became an important part of the day.
Kensho stands out with its chic, Cycladic architecture, and the hotel really has a tranquil, luxurious vibe. We always felt like we were returning back to relaxed luxury when heading home. The rooms and suites are beautifully designed with natural materials and a minimalist aesthetic, and some even come with private plunge pools or hot tubs.
Top Tip: Do not miss a massage in their spa. My fiancé and I both came out and just stared at each other smiling. One of the best massages we've both ever had.
The LGBTQ+ Scene
As a gay couple, another reason we chose Mykonos was its reputation as a stellar hotspot for the queer scene - particularly for gay men. And it can't be denied that this is all down to Jackie O's.
As much as I love gay bars and gay clubs - no matter what city you visit - they tend to lean towards the cheap and cheerful side. Jacky O's is the first gay bar and club I have ever visited that I would genuinely describe as bougie. The most famous is the iconic Jackie O' Beach Club, where we spent a day on possibly the most beautiful beach in all of Mykonos. Crystal clear turquoise waters, golden sand, and impeccable service to your luxurious sunbed.
After a day on the beach, wander up the steps to the Beach Club itself, with an incredible view over the ocean. Here, you can dance the night away to iconic pop remixes and enjoy over-the-top drag shows (albeit the American drag artists are nothing compared to our Irish drag queens here at home). Jackie O's also has a bar in Mykonos Old Town, in the Port area.
Decked out with fancy furniture and dangling chandeliers, this gay hotspot is full of stylish gay men looking to dance the night away.
One thing to note, though, is that everything is even more expensive than what we have at home. Don't be surprised when an order of two cocktails costs as much as €50.
The review: Chania, Crete
As described above, knowing the expense of Mykonos, we wanted our second island to be a lot more reasonable. After some research, and taking a number of islands into consideration, we landed on Chania, Crete.
In terms of travel, it was ideal. Not only was there was a direct ferry to Chania from Mykonos, but there is a direct flight from Chania to Dublin.
As a holiday destination, the city is rich in history, with influences from Venetian, Ottoman, and Greek cultures, making it a melting pot of architectural and historical landmarks. The Old Town of Chania is particularly enchanting, featuring narrow, winding streets lined with beautifully preserved buildings, vibrant bougainvillaea, and a picturesque Venetian harbor.
This area is known for its charming blend of historic elegance and lively atmosphere, making it one of the most beautiful and visited towns on the island. It's worth starting by saying that Chania (and Crete in general) is an island where everyone recommends you rent a car.
The Old Town is amazing for bars and restaurants (which we'll get to later), but during the day, on a hot holiday adventure like Crete, it's all about the beach. Particularly as we opted for an Airbnb for this second island meaning we had no pool.
The beaches that border Chania Old Town weren't our favourite, so we rented a car (approximately €400 for the week), to visit some stunning locations that were a 30 to 40-minute drive away. Our favourite beach of all was Marathi Beach.
Top tip: If you're willing to spend that bit extra for a really special memory, on our anniversary date we spent the day on a private yacht (complete with skipper and captain), and it was the best day of the entire two week holiday. We went with chaniaboattours.com and the rental fee was approx. €1,500, including lunch.
Old Town
Chania is a beautiful city, filled with narrow streets scattered with colourful flowers and vibrant buildings. Strolling through the Old Town and the Old Port, I was immediately struck by the charm and beauty of the place.
Where to eat:
Pallas
Pallas is a sophisticated restaurant located right on the Venetian harbour, offering a perfect blend of traditional Cretan and modern Mediterranean cuisine. With its stunning views of the sea and historic lighthouse, it's an ideal spot for a romantic dinner or a leisurely lunch, where you can enjoy fresh, high-quality dishes with a modern twist.
Ensure you book a rooftop table as the views are breathtaking, but it should be noted that these need to be booked a week or two in advance.
Tamam
A local favourite, Tamam is housed in a historic Venetian building that adds to its charming ambiance. Known for its warm, welcoming atmosphere and hearty portions, this restaurant offers a menu rich in authentic Cretan flavours, making it a must-visit for those seeking traditional Greek cuisine.
Salis
Celebrated for its farm-to-table approach, featuring ingredients sourced from its own farm and other local producers, Salis has a clear focus on sustainability and a menu that highlights the best of Cretan and Mediterranean dishes. You can enjoy delicious and ethically conscious feasts while overlooking the beautiful harbour.
Oinoa Wine Restaurant
A cozy yet elegant spot that pairs an extensive selection of Greek wines with a menu of creative Mediterranean dishes. Its intimate setting, combined with knowledgeable staff who are passionate about wine, makes it a top choice for oenophiles and food lovers alike.
Top tip: 'Ginger Concept' is the best brunch place in Chania. Trendy atmosphere and people watching, too!
Periplous Seaside Restaurant
Periplous Seaside Restaurant offers a serene dining experience with stunning views of the Aegean Sea, making it a perfect date spot. The restaurant is located in the exquisite Tanneries hotel (If I was to book a hotel versus an Airbnb, this definitely would have been it). The restaurant's modern design and emphasis on using high-quality, locally sourced ingredients make it a standout choice for those looking to indulge in a relaxing, gourmet meal by the water.
Chania's LGBTQ+ Scene
Chania, while not as internationally renowned for its LGBTQ+ scene as Mykonos, is still a welcoming and gay-friendly destination. The Old Town and Venetian Harbor area are particularly open and accepting, with many bars and cafes that are welcoming to all visitors.
While Chania doesn't have a large number of specifically gay venues, the overall vibe of the city is very accepting, and we never felt uncomfortable holding hands while walking around. Our experience was one of friendly locals and an open-minded atmosphere, making it a great destination as LGBTQ+ travellers looking for a more low-key experience.
You can follow Rob Kenny on Instagram @robkenny_
The views expressed here are those of the author and do not represent or reflect the views of RTÉ
